EDISTO, SC
“The sights & smells of the Carolina low country is an almost irreversible antidote to the charms of other landscapes…you can be moved profoundly by other vistas, by other oceans, by soaring mountain ranges, but you can never be seduced.” — Pat Conroy
My go-to for sun, southern hospitality + low country cuisine
Don’t get me wrong, I like to party just as much as the next gal, but if you are looking for a boozy, spring breakers’ party paradise, Edisto is just not the place; however, if you are looking to partake in any of the following, Edisto is definitely the place:
- Reading that book you’ve been too busy to pick back up
- Stuffing yourself full with fresh shrimp, crab & flounder
- Stockpiling vitamin D & serotonin while catching a tan
- Getting your cardio in as you kayak through seemingly endless tidal creeks
- Savoring the solitude of a near-deserted beach
I apologize in advance for the gooey profession of love for Edisto that is about to ensue. I am not exaggerating—this place really does make me feel this syrupy! The labyrinths of golden marsh grass that stretch from the mighty Atlantic to wave hello are downright alluring and the thick, ocean air that coats your skin and fills your nose is downright intoxicating. Edisto is one seductive mistress.
Do
Kayak to Shell Island
Sandwiched between the ocean & the salt marsh, this two-mile stretch of sandbar is accessible only by boat, making it sparsely populated with people & densely populated with swooping pelicans, clam beds, horseshoe crabs, vacant & occupied conch shells, sand dollars & sun-bleached driftwood. Shell, picnic & soak in the serenity before hitching a ride back to mainland with the tides.
Don’t forget that half the fun is getting there. Rent kayaks from Captain Mike at Wilkinson’s Landing. Don’t know a lick about tides? No worries, Captain Mike will time out your trip just right. With the tidal creeks being so jammed packed with nutrients, kayaking in close quarters with egrets, stingrays & dolphins is not uncommon. I felt like the luckiest gal in the world kayaking alongside a small pod of dolphins, digging their noses through the rich mud in hopes for an afternoon snack & surfacing to catch their breath and cast intrigued but wary eyes at me. You know you’re up close and personal with a dolphin when you can hear her exhale through her blowhole…so, so cool.
Botany Bay Plantation
Have you come upon an eerie dirt road? Great, you’ve arrived! Kick up some dust as you drive under a dense canopy of wizened live oaks, walk the boardwalks through waving marshlands, and end at the coolest place (in my opinion) on Edisto Island: Botany Bay. The beach is made up entirely of shells and home to sun-bleached palms and petrified oaks. If I were you, I would spend the afternoon climbing toppled trees and searching for sand dollars. Remember how I said the beach was entirely made up of shells? I meant it, so wear sandals unless you want hamburger meat for feet. And one last thing: please know in advance that there is no shelling—help keep Botany Bay beautiful!!
Edisto Book Store
The best company on the beach is a book. Am I right? Edisto Book Store is super charming with its black & white-checkered floors & resident kitty, Emily Grace (give her a pat from me). The selection must be great considering I never emerge from their nooks & crannies without a book in tow. And it’s not just the selection that’s great; it’s the people, too. Carroll is so incredibly friendly, knowledgeable and filled with great suggestions. My last visit, he rescued me from purchasing a book so boring “it’s like trudging through molasses” & directed me to an alternative that I absolutely loved…thank you, Carroll!! Looking for a souvenir or gift that isn’t totally tacky? Edisto Book Store has a beautiful collection of framed maps detailing the Carolina coast.
eat
George & Pink’s
Don’t be deterred by the humble storefront of George & Pink’s—it is home to the freshest produce and arguably the best homemade pies in Edisto. Need I say more?
Edisto Seafood
If you are feeling ambitious, how about throwing together your very own low country boil? Stack the odds in your favor by starting with the freshest seafood in town. Hauling in shrimp every morning, Edisto Seafood will be key to an authentic and delicious low country boil.
Whaley’s Store
This gas station turned restaurant is still the place to fill your tank. Named one of Southern Livings’ top seafood dives in South Carolina, Whaley’s is a staple for locals & transients alike. The following are directions on how to have a proper meal at Whaley’s: 1) Order yourself a beer. 2) Start the meal off right with a cup of shrimp and crab bisque—lump crab meat and whole shrimp are abound!! 2) After licking the cup clean, continue to stuff yourself with seafood. My personal favorite is the crab cake with Cajun remoulade, but I know many who are loyal to the cheesy shrimp and grits. Take your pick or do both (here’s a tip: do both).
Ella & Ollie’s
Just because Ella & Ollie’s has a country club feel, doesn’t mean they don’t know low country cooking. Order a glass of wine, and I beg of you to partake in the shrimp and grits. Please, I will be living vicariously through you.
Sea Cow Eatery
You know the place that you eat multiple times on a singular vacation because it is so darn good? That place is Sea Cow Eatery. The low country boil and shrimp and grits are unbeatable. Looking for something battered and fried? Any of the fried fanfare (shrimp, flounder, scallops, oysters) are definitely worthy of note, especially when washed down with a cold beer. If you have had your fill of seafood (doubtful), order yourself the tangy, Carolina BBQ sandwich and DO NOT skip on the fries. If you are a lover of crispy fries, Sea Cow’s beer-battered fries are a godsend! Can’t say no to made-daily, homemade pies? Me neither. Try Martha’s key lime and/or (depending on how ambitious you are) coconut cream pie to satisfy your sweet tooth and thoroughly complete your Sea Cow dining experience. A+ for you.
The Coffee Shop at Edisto Beach
Not a morning person? Me neither. Make your morning not suck with oceanfront views, a steaming cup of Joe and freshly baked biscuits with homemade sausage gravy.
stay
Creek House
Despite being a short 10 minute drive outside the main stay of Edisto, Good Tides Roll [affiliate link], a darling 4 bed/2 bath creek cottage, is my all-time favorite Edisto getaway. Why is it my #1, you ask?
- The back porch is screened, so kick back on the hammock without swatting skeeters.
- Take a stroll down the long, private dock into the heart of the tidal creeks. Cozy up on the platform with your beverage of choice
& keep your eyes peeled for egrets, pelicans, stingrays & dolphins.
- Have some raw chicken on hand? Tie it onto a dip net (affiliate link) & snare some blue crabs. Personally, I am the throw-it-back
kinda gal as I am not chef enough to prepare my own crab…nor do I have the heart. I’m just in it for the thrill of the catch.
Regardless, you do you—just don’t forget to admire those blue, stained glass back fins & WATCH YOUR FINGERS! These crabs are
feisty.
- Don’t let that private launch go to waste! Bring your own or rent kayaks at Island Bikes & Outfitters. Wind your way through the
tall marsh grass to Shell Island for some shelling, sunning & seclusion. Having visions of yourself marooned in that maze of tidal
creeks? Don’t be intimidated—even I, who could not find my way out of a paper sack, can successfully navigate to Shell Island.
Note: Coasting with the tides is much more relaxing than paddling against them, so be sure to check the tide schedule on the
local forecast.
- You’re living like a local, so why not shop like a local? Lucky for you, George & Pink’s is just a skip away from Good Tides Roll.
Fresh produce & homemade pies in one place? Yes, please.
Beach Bungalow
Edisto is lined with candy-colored bungalows. So, really…just take your pick, but if you’re wondering where I shacked up my last visit check out the Sea Plus [affiliate link]—a cozy 4 bed/2 bath beachfront bungalow on stilts. Step (down multiple steps) off the back porch onto white sands in the mornings and lull to sleep with the ebb & flow of the tides in the evenings. Don’t forget that the length of Edisto is bikeable within 20 minutes. That plus the central location of Sea Plus makes it easy to bike or golf cart to all those restaurants you’ve been drooling over. Tired of catching rays and sipping wine on the beach? I don’t believe it… but if you are looking to switch it up, the drive to Botany Bay & Wilkinson’s Landing is a short 15 minutes.
Edisto Beach State Park
For those of you looking to sleep under those Carolina stars (or just save a few bucks), pitch a tent in Edisto Beach State Park. Campsites feel secluded with canopies of Spanish moss and shady palms—perfect for hanging that hammock. Snag a campsite bordering the marshland for a chance to climb out on the low-hanging branches of a live oak for a sunrise/sunset/anytime lookout over the sun-kissed tidal creeks. With Edisto Beach State Park being right off the main drag of Edisto, bike or drive in no time to any of Edisto’s 38 public beach access points and (most importantly) to food that is not of the “freeze-dried & add hot water” variety. To adventure out into those tidal creeks you’ve been admiring from your perch, drive 10 minutes to Botany Bay & Wilkinson’s Landing. Note: that multi-legged thing that just skittered under your tent? It’s not a spider; it’s a fiddler crab…phew.
